Think Tank February Specials

Great news from  Think Tank Photo. For the month of February, whenever you order one of their rugged, multifunction, and secure backpacks* they will give you for free your choice of one of their popular AppHouse 8 or AppHouse 10 tablet cases. Their backpacks range from the field-oriented StreetWalker backpacks to their transportation-oriented Airport backpacks, as well as their expandable Shape Shifter and their “long glass” backpacks. The AppHouse shoulder/belt-mounted tablet bags are a great way to carry a digital portfolio or presentation, transmit images, or access your music, games, apps and more.  And don’t forget, as a friend, whenever you order $50 or more of any Think Tank gear using my special link you can add yet one more free item to your order, as well as free shipping!  To receive your free AppHouse follow the rebate download instructions on the backpacks’ product pages.  [*Note: this special offer does not apply to Perception backpacks.]CLICK HERE TO ORDER

Panasonic releases firmware version 2.1 for the Lumix GH4

Panasonic released version 2.1 on January 26, 2015.  Had to wait and test it all before posting this.  As with any firmware update, please follow all instruction and do so with care. Here is the excerpt from the Panasonic web site and the links to the update:

1. Time code can be embedded to the HDMI output signal.
   - Selectable in Motion Picture menu : [Time Code]>[HDMI Time Code Output]
   * Available when DMC-GH4 or DMW-YAGH are connected with the products of ATOMOS Global Pty. Ltd. or the products complying with the extended specifications of ATOMOS Global Pty. Ltd..
2. RSS (Recording Start/Stop) signal can be embedded to the HDMI output signal.
   - Selectable in Motion Picture menu : [HDMI Rec Output]>[HDMI Recording Control]
   * Available when DMC-GH4 or DMW-YAGH are connected with the products of ATOMOS Global Pty. Ltd. or the products complying with the extended specifications of ATOMOS Global Pty. Ltd..
3. FHD at 30p/25p native output via HDMI is available while recording video in FHD at 30p/25p.
   - Selectable in Motion Picture menu : [HDMI Rec Output]>[1080/30p Set.] or [1080/25p Set.]
4. Playback performance of recorded 4K video is improved.
5. [Time Lapse Shot] Program is fixed to start recording at the designated time even when [summer time] is set.

Go to the firmware update service notice page.

Go to the firmware update service notice page of USA & EU regions.

A Image Size Test with the Panasonic Lumix LX100

To set the stage, the Lumix LX100 is a 12 MP camera that uses a 16MP sensor.  As the camera can be configured for 3:2, 4:3, 1:1 and 16:9 aspect ratios, Panasonic has been successful is maintaining 12MP per frame utilizing portions of the 16MP sensor to its max. The LX100 is a small fixed lens camera and you can get the specs here.Many questions have been asked about Micro For Thirds (MFT) cameras and their ability to produce images ready for large prints.  Keeping in mind that a majority of images these days are created and shown on computer screens and small portable devices.  The maximum image size for the printed page for a magazine is 8.5 by 11.0 inches and for a double page spread 17.0 by 11.0 inches with a resolution of 240 to 300 DPI.So last weekend I shot a few images with the Lumix LX100 hand-held at a casual photo shoot.  The lights were set for ISO 100 and f/8.0. Focal length 34 mm which is a 68mm equivalent.Here is one image cropped from the original size of 3456 by 4608 pixels to 2284 by 3416 (roughly 7.8MP or 2/3 the resolution of the effective sensor.Click on the image to see it full resolution.Next, I up-sized this image to 30 inches by 44 inches at 300 pixels per inch. The following image is a 5 by 7 aspect ratio crop 1165 by 1631 pixels.Feeling good, I resized the original crop to 60 inches by 90 inches at 240 pixels per inch.  The final image is a 5 by 7 aspect ratio crop of a similar section 2148 by 3007 pixels.Resizing was accomplished using OnOne's Perfect Resize. No post processing, sharpening or clarity adjustments were made to the resized images.  All OnOne defaults were left as is.  Some degradation is apparent but as a result of jpg conversion.Hope this dispels the myth that a MFT image can't be made into a large print.

Canon Firmware Updates and Earnings

Firmware updates for Canon's 5D Mark III and 1D X have been released. These updates primarily improve autofocus in Live View  and a few orher small bugs.Links to the update pages are as follows:

Download Canon 5D Mark III firmware version 1.3.3 

Download Canon EOS-1D X firmware version 2.0.7

Canon also released its earnings report for Q4 2014. Click here for the report.

Of significance is the fact that Canon's imaging sales in the America's had the greatest decline of nearly 12% year over year.  From to 392,373 billion Yen in 2013 to 345,707 billion Yen in 2014.

Lightroom 6 - compatibility information

As per a  post on the Adobe blog yesterday, Lightroom 6 when announced will only work on 64 bit platforms.  This means Mac users must be on OSX 10.8 or above and Windows users must be on Windows 7, 8 or 8.1 64 bit.More info at http://blogs.adobe.com/lightroomjournal/2015/01/update-on-os-support-for-next-version-of-lightroom.html

Manfrotto's Nanopole Stand and Snap Tilthead

Manfrotto Nanopole Stand - MS0490A

If you are looking for a lightweight, compact and portable light stand for studio or location shoots using a speed light  this is your answer. The Nanopole is a lightweight and compact stand for flash heads and and modifiers weighing under 3.5 pounds  It will extend to 6' and has with a removable riser section that can be used as a boom-arm for hand held or clamped positioning. The stand  has reverse folding legs allowing it to fold down 19.3" for packing.The Nanopole possesses a couple of features which make it stand out from many other light stands. It has a convenient hook to secure sandbags for additional stability. One leg is extendable to permit leveling on uneven surfaces.  Note however, it will not level on stairs. The riser is easily detached from the legs by a simple push on a release button on the bottom of the pole.The Nanopole is ideally suited for indoor and outdoor photography and has some visual appeal too.  The red anodized accents and logo give this stand a bit of pizzaz.  The Nanopole sells for under $80.

 

Manfrotto Snap Tilthead with Shoe Mount - MLH1HS

The Snap Tilthead with Shoe Mount from Manfrotto is new and unique yet very handy way to mount your flash off-camera.  You can use the flash with an umbrella or a small softbox.Unlike most swivel adaptors the Tilthead does not have any large extended levers and locking handles and is easy to pack and store. The Tilted fits all nightstands with 5/8” stud and has a unique spring loaded locking lever. The Tilthead has an auto-locking knob for angle selection with a built in spring loaded counterbalance mechanism.  This prevents the the flash from tipping into the stand. The shoe mount loosens and tightens via collar that requires a single twist. The Tilthead will accept all standard hot shoe flash heads.The Tilted sells for under $40.The two devices together make an excellent portable solution. 

Iceland - February 28 to March 7

With the exceptional Aurora Borealis activity in Iceland, I am doing a 1 week photo tour and workshop that will be exceptional.From the western peninsulas of Snæfellsnes and Reykjanes to the exceptional south coast including the exquisite black sand beaches and icebergs in Jökulsárlón and surrounding areas this trip is designed for all levels of photographers.  This trip is limited to a maximum 7 participants.All Iceland photo tours and workshops in 2014 and 2013 were fully subscribed within days so please register as soon as possible.CLICK HERE FOR DETAILS 

Photography at CES 2015

CES 2015 officially opened today January 6, 2015 but most of the key product announcements were made yesterday.  Here is a quick roundup of photography related products. Some WOW and Some (I don't know what to say).  My big question once again is - What's up with Canon and Nikon.Sadly Canon announced not much. A camcorder update to three of its consumer targeted models.  A round of PowerShots, 2 ultra compact cameras and 3 mega-zooms - Oh well so much for Canon and innovation.  One more, a Connect Station that is 1TB media gizmo for offloading content from cameras. “Canon Connect Station CS100, a photo and video storage device that has the capability to connect to multiple compatible imaging devices allowing users to easily store, view and share images and videos” from the Adorama web site.  Was this gizmo so important? Particularly since there are not many Canon Cameras that can take advantage of the NFC feature.Nikon too, lackluster, announced a D5500 3.2 inch touch screen and not much more with this model as the update to the D5300 - coming into the real world finally. In addition Nikon introduced a light 300mm f/4 lens the AF-S Nikkor 300mm f4D IF-ED. This is an image stabilized lens and uses technology that is similar to Canon’s DO (diffractive optic-element) lenses.  Nikon also announced a slow collapsible 55-200mm f4-5.6 consumer lens.Fuji film announced their 16-55mm f/2.8 lens as per their lens introduction schedule.  The lens is optimized for the XT-1 and is weather sealed. Unfortunately it is not image stabilized.Panasonic introduces the Lumix ZS50 with 30X zoom and follows Sony with downsizing megapixels from 18 to 12 for better low light performance.  Also introducing a few camcorders and a few full featured 4K/UHD versions. Anther great introduction but shown in Beta is a 4K capable Blu-Ray player.  Best of all the Panasonic Lumix CM-1 Smart Camera (A Camera Phone or a Phone Camera) introduced last year at Photokina will be released in the US this summer - more here.Sony blasted its own flurry of 4K video products. A prosumer 4K/UHD handy cam the FDR-AX33 that breaks the $1000 barrier. A new Action Cam the FDR-X1000V with 4K video and enhanced image stabilization.Though not a camera or camcorder but photography related, Wacom announced a few new models of its Windows 8 tablet/secondary desktop display along with a couple of larger desktop Cintiq displays.My picks for whatever it may be worth are the Panasonic CM-1 and the Wacom Cintiqs.

Fog Photography - a new article in "Tips"

After the fog this weekend and some of the questions that have been asked, I have written an article on Fog Photography that you may find useful.  The article is posted in the "Tips" section of my web. Click Here for the article.

Fog - In the Dark

In continuation of yesterday's post, the second image I had pre-visualized was a barn nestled among some dark trees with a figure in some vintage clothing standing in the foreground.  I wanted to light the figure for some added effect.  Driving in a nearby town I notice this barn or shack, so my wife and I decided to check it out.  It was close to what I was wanting to capture.  My wife put on this vintage coat and trudged through the slush to the shack.  I in the mean while took a few test shots to check out the light and composition.  I had not worn proper boots and was wearing a pair of slip ons. In the rush to get out and shoot, as luck would have it, as I carried the light stand and soft box to the shack I realized I was ankle-deep in slush and freezing water.  Next my pocket wizards decided they would limit their range  so I had to get closer than I wanted as all I had taken with me was the 35 - 100 mm on my GH4.  To get the full shot I would have to take two images and stitch them.  The final image is composed of two images stitched in Photoshop and then textured.Please click on the image for a larger rendition.

 5:00 PM – Panasonic Lumix Gh5, 35 – 100 mm f/2.8 at 35mm. Exposure triad – ISO 200, f/2.8, 1/6 sec.

Fog - January 4, 2015

Today was the first day in 2015 that I picked up a camera and stepped out to see if I could get two images that I have been envisioning. The first was a tall lone tree in fog or mist the other I leave for tomorrow. I wanted it to be a monochrome image, B&W or cyanotype - I settled on B&W.  The snow against the dirt and rocks adds to the scene creating a strong foundation for the rest that is mainly an ethereal sky. 

Photography Post-processing - Which Tablet would you recommend?

This post is in response to a question I was asked yesterday.In my opinion and having used a tablet for the past 12 years or more I would say that if you draw or retouch using your computer you need a tablet and a pen. Not only is the pen more ergonomic but it is far more natural in the way you position your hand and fingers compared to the award two or three button mouse.The mouse is fine for basic painting and clocking. Anything more and it just does not cut the mustard.Though the tablet and pen is not an essential tool for photographers it becomes essential if you do any retouching, masking and digital art.So the question about which tablet should a photographer get can be answered in a few ways. Undoubtedly the Wacom is the finest tablet in the market. There are others but I would stay away. You want a tablet that is well designed and works.For any peripheral device one of the key considerations is the software interface and the drivers. Here Wacom excels.The size of the tablet you used should be based on whether you are a single or dual monitor user. For single monitor users, my suggestion is the small or medium Wacom tablets. For dual monitor users the choice is the large or the extra-large. The reason for the large are larger tablet is because you can map each monitor to two halves of the tablet.Wacom makes three tablet products. The Bamboo, The Intuos Pen and the Intuos Pro. As a photographer I would stay away from the Bamboo as I feel it is a touch pad and with the stylus great for doodling.So the choices are the Intuos Pen or the Intuos Pro.  Both can be connected via USB or wireless.  The Intuos has touch sensitivity in all models while the Intuos Pen has an optional touch version.Lets compare the two.

	Intuos Pen	Intuos Pro
Interface	USB	USB
Tablet Dimensions	10.75 x 8.75 x 0.4 in	15 x 9.9 x 0.5 in
Active Area	8.5" x 5.3"	8.8" x 5.5"
Pressure Levels	1024 tip	2048 on tip and eraser
Resolution	2540 lpi	5080 lpi
Express Keys	4 customizable	8 customizable
Mutli-Touch: Yes	Yes	Yes 10 Fingers
Multi-function Touch Ring: no	No	Touch Ring: Yes - 4 customizable functions
Radial Menu	No	Yes
Pen	Nib and Eraser	Grip: Latex-free silicone rubber
Pen Nibs	5 Standard	Replacement Nibs: 10 nibs : 5 standard, 1 flex, 1 stroke nib, and 3 felt
Pen Tilt	No	Yes +/- 60 levels
Pen Switches	No	2 customizable

 Wacom Intuos Pro is highly customizable. It has 8 buttons and a multi-functional touch ring and two buttons on the pen. The Intuos Pen has 4 customizable buttons in the top panel. With the Intuos Pro each of them can be assigned a different custom feature - from scrolling, panning and zooming to keyboard shortcuts and changing brush size. You can also use the tilt feature to change brush shapes. A Shortcut Menu can be assigned to one of the buttons and when clicked a circular menu will show on the screen. This menu system gives access to several additional shortcuts than can be layered. Another great feature is the ability to set and customize buttons by application. So Photoshop can have its own custom buttons and Lightroom its own, etc.Pressure sensitivity is always questioned. If you use Photoshop that recognizes pressure sensitivity then the choice is the Intros Pro with higher levels. You will notice the difference only when comparing the two tablets side by side. If all you use is Lightroom then you do not need the greater pressure sensitivity and the Intros will serve you well.Intuos Pro also supports hand gestures that are customizable too. You can pan, zoom and rotate using gestures. This feature can be enabled or disabled as needed.In my opinion the Intuos Pen is ideal for beginners. This is a very good tablet for drawing, painting and photo editing. The Intros Pro on the other hand is one of the best in tablets. The difference in price is fully justifiable. This is a tablet for photographers who do a lot of post-processing, image retouching and work extensively with layer masks. Precision cloning, masking, dodging and burning, is controlled yet simplified. Of importance is the fact that you are unlikely to outgrow the features this tablet provides.Wacom also make the Cintiq family of high definition pen monitors that are exceptional.

2015 First Quarter - One Day Workshops

Wishing you and your families a Very Happy & Prosperous New YearThe One Day Workshops for the first quarter of 2015 have been posted.They are listed on the One Day Workshop PageORYou may go directly to the Registration Page to get details and register.All one day workshops include a Pizza Lunch

What else is in my bag and more - Part 2

Here are some additional items I find useful.  Some for the bag and others that are just good to have.

1. Remote Shutter Release (wired or wireless) - A must have for tack sharp photography. There are 5 types available:
   • A wired version that physically connects to your camera with a cable. Good for most photography when you are close to your camera.
   • An Infrared trigger that is used to trigger the shutter using an IR beam (this requires you to be in “line of sight” to the front of your camera. These are usually OEM products but a few third-party devices are also available. I find these limiting.
   • A wireless radio trigger.  This is a two unit device - one is mounted and connected to the camera and the other is the hand-held controller. Hahnel and Phottix are the ones I use.
   • An iOS  or Android wired trigger. The smart phone is physically connected to the camera to trigger the shutter.
   • The IOS or Android trigger.  Here you use your smart phone and connect to the camera in WiFi mode to control and trigger the camera.
2. Filter wrench (pair) -  These come in two sizes and based on the lenses you have you may want to get both sets. Amazing how screw-on filters just don’t come off.  The plastic wrenches allow you to apply pressure at the right places and lever the filter off so easily.  Adorama branded wrenches are less than $5 a pair.
3. LED Head Lamp - a must have when you are in the dark.  Always carry one in your bag.
4. Intervalometer - A must have device if you do any timelapse. long exposure, or multiple exposure photography.  From basic wired devices to wireless units these are made most cameras including ones that have built-in intervalometers. Phottix, Hannel, Canon all make great units.  Promote Systems makes a product called Promote Control, one of the finest devices not just an intervalometer but a whole lot more. The Promote Control will do focus stacking, automatic brackets of up to 45 images, with up to 9.0 EV step between shots for HDR. It can even automatically step into Bulb for night-time HDR!  More expensive than the others but the Promote Control is my first choice.

   Flash Photography:

5. Flash Gels   Filter gels are a great way to modify the color of your light but more important, they can balance the color temperature to match the ambient light. Roscoe and Rogue make excellent gels.  My personal choice is the full set with the case and elastic band from Rogue. The Rogue set is around $30.
6. Rogue Flashbender  - These flash diffusers and reflectors are the best I have used.  The come in multiple sizes and when used with the front diffuser, that act like a small soft-box.  The cam be molded to direct light as needed or rolled up to form a snoot.  These start at $20 for the Flashbender bounce card..
7. Rogue Grid - If you need more control with the direction of the light from your flash the Rogue Grid is an excellent tool. The design features stacking honeycomb grids that produce 16, 25 and 45 degree grid spots.  In addition you can get a set of bells that match the shape of the grid collar.  The grid is under $50 and the gels will cost under $30
8. Kupo Off-Camera Flash Alli Clamp - The clamp has a jaw that can clamp onto items up to 1.57" thick. Rubber nubs on the inside of the clamp prevent damage to paint or furniture. The clamp has a 5/8" receiver for light-stands or a 5/8" stud for super clamps with matching receivers. The Alli Clamp is topped with a metal locking shoe mounted to a rotating ball for your flash.  I use it to mount my flashes, action cams, video lights and any other objects that need to held in place. Cost under $50. A lighter version called the Kupo Alli Clamp is for under $15.

   Macro and Close-up

9. Focusing rails and racks - These are ideal for precise positioning of a camera in X and Y directional axes. These come in single axis (front to back adjustment and 2 axis where a left right adjustment is also possible.  Prices range for under $100 to $600 plus.
10. Diopters or Close-up filters - This is one of the least expensive method of doing close-up photography. These filters attach to the front of your lens allowing you to focus closer hence magnifying your subject.  They are available in single and dual elect construction.  I recommend the dual element as you will have better optics. Prices range from $30 and up.
11. Extension tubes - If you like macro these will allow your lenses to focus closer to the subject. As they have no optical elements in there is no image quality degradation. Kenko extension tubes are what I have and love. They come in a set of 12mm, 20mm and 36mm.  For the newer mirrorless cameras the tubes are in sets of two at 10mm and 16mm
12. McClamp The Clamp - This clamps to a tripod leg and can hold such items as gray cards and 12" reflectors, and small delicate subjects in place. It has a 26" flexible arm with a spring-loaded clamp to hold your subject in place.  Wimberly also makes a similar device and have a new version called the Plamp II.  Both products are about $45.
13. Light Tent or Cube - A great light modifier for your product photography, food photography and macro work. These come in various sizes and cost $40 and up.
14. Triflip (Trigrip) 6 in 1 or 8 in 1 reflector/diffuser - The TriGrip from Lastolite has a triangular shape with a built-in handle that allows easy hand holding or for attaching to a stand.The TriGrip is 30" at its widest point and collapses storage.  I prefer this to the typical round diffuser reflector kits.

    A few for those who dabble with video:

15. LED Light Panels - these come in various sizes - remember to get one that is disable and has the intensity you need for your kind of video shooting.
16. Variable ND filter - for those bright days when you need to slow your shutter down and keep your aperture wide.
17. Shotgun microphone - DSLRs are great at capturing video.  The audio on the other hand really is pathetic.  The minute in-built microphones are really bad. So get a good starter microphone. A shotgun mounts on the hot-shoe and connects to the mic input port of the camera. My choices for a starter microphone is the Rhode Video Mic Pro with the Dead Cat for around $210

Please use the comment link on the top of this post to share with us some of your special items.If you do plan on getting any of these items please use my affiliate links on the right column of this blog post or use the Products and Discounts Page for additional links. 

What else is in my bag - Part 1

Apart from cameras, lenses, filters we as photographers carry a number of gizmos to help our image capture.  This is part 1 of my list of gizmos.  These are all reasonably priced and many are less than $10.  Most on-line photography stores carry these items and you should check them out.

1. Gray Card  – Get your exposure right. Available in cardboard and durable plastic these are one of the most valuable tools for your camera kit. The camera may be smart but it is easily fooled.  It will under or over expose very bright or very dark scenes. You should use a gray card to set the exposure for much more accurate results. Some of the newer cards come as sets with a black and white card.  This can also help you set your white balance.  A step-up would be the X-Rite Color Checker Passport.
2. High velocity blower - Never clean your lens without first blowing off any dust, grit or lint.   The last thing you want is to scratch your lens as your clean it with a lens pen or lens cloth.  A good blower costs under $10 - the one I like is the Visible Dust Manual Blower. Adorama and B&H have these.
3. Lens Pen - This is another must have tool for your bag.  There are many manufacturers and models available.  The ones with a carbon bad need to be activated before each use. Others like the Allsop have replaceable tips.  I keep an Allsop in each of my camera bags.
4. Lens Cleaning Cloth - A good lens cloth is a must in your bag.  Zeiss makes some of the finest and can be purchased from Walmart and B&H for $3 and up.
5. 1 or 1.5 inch natural bristle soft painter's brush - An ideal too to get lager dust and sand particles off your equipment.  Keep one in your bag - you will be happy you have it on those dusty trips.
6. Small micro fiber or cotton hand towel - You never know when you will need it.  These are great for wiping of moisture from your gear on those wet days. Grocery stores and Bed Bath & Beyond carry these.
7. Spray bottle - You may not always get a dewy morning but you can create dew on flower petals and spider webs with a handy fine-mist spray bottle. Fine mist spray bottles can be found for under $2 at Amazon.
8. Bubble level - A three axis bubble level for your hotshot mount will keep your horizons level.  If you have an inbuilt electronic level in the camera then you can skip this tool.
9. Elastic bands and small ziplock bags - You will find many uses for this combo. A lost lens cap can be a problem but not if you can put a ziplock bag around the front element and secure it with an elastic band.  If your zoom lens tends to creep the elastic band can help keep it in place.
10. Large garbage bag - During any outdoor shoot I always pack one or two large garbage bags in my bag or in the car.  They are great when you need some rain protection, need to keep your equipment on the salty sand, need to lay down at ground level when shooting low to the ground.  A black garbage bag acts as a great gobo when needed, translucent bags make great diffusers.
11. Gaffer's tape - 1 inch width in black, a small roll is perfect to secure items when needed.  This is a must have to tape down your lens at infinity when doing any astro photography.  A small piece can be used to cover the eyepiece of the viewfinder, preventing stray light from spoiling the exposure.  It is also a great all around repair tool.
12. Parchment paper, issue paper, or rip (stock) cloth - A small piece about 4 inches square is good but larger pieces can be useful for other situations.  You can tape this (using gaffer's tape to your flash to diffuse the light.  If you keep a larger piece you can have someone hold it to diffuse bright sunlight while doing close-up or macro photography. Get parchment paper any kitchen or grocery store. rip stock can be purchased from a fabric store or on-line.
13. White foam-core - This makes a great reflector, if you need a silver reflector keep some kitchen foil and fold it over the foam-core.  You can use the foam-core as a gobo or even as a white background for small subjects. Staples, Office Max, Michael’s or A.C. Moore are ideal for this.
14. LED Flashlight - a must have when you are in the dark.  A great tool for light painting and when you need just that added light for filling in shadows or adding a highlight. My favorites are Coast and SureFire (SureFire lights are available from the SureFire website and Amazon).  Others can be purchased at Home Depot, Amazon or Lowes carry great LED Lights
15. Small notebook and a ballpoint pen - Journaling is key.  Write down locations, notes, day and time of best light, etc.  Draw sketches of what there is so you can come back for better images.  If nothing else - you can use it to jot down names and contact info of fellow photographers you meet.

In the near future I will follow-up with additional items I find useful.  Some for the bag and others that are good to have. In the mean time, why don't you use the comment link on the top of this post to share with us some of your special items.If you do plan on getting any of these items please use my affiliate links on the right column of this blog post or use the Products and Discounts Page for additional links. 

2015 Photography Project - 12 Pre-visualized Photographs

The Oxford dictionary indicates the term Pre-visualization as a Noun and Pre-visualize as a Verb as follows:Pre-visualization: The visualization of how something will look when created or finished.Pre-visualize: To visualize (how) a thing will look when created or finished; to imagine or predict (the result of a process or act).Ansel Adams was a pioneer of this technique. He pre-visualized the final print and based on this he determined what would be needed to achieve that result. This would become his game plan for what he captured and how he processed it in the darkroom.Ansel Adams definition of visualization was:The camera makes an image-record of the object before it. It records the subject in terms of the optical properties of the lens, and the chemical and physical properties of the negative and print. The control of that record lies in the selection by the photographer and in his understanding of the photographic processes at his command. The photographer visualizes his conception of the subject as presented in the final print. He achieves the expression of his visualization through his technique—aesthetic, intellectual, and mechanical.Pre-visualization should become a mandatory requirement to consistently make great photographs.When you do not pre-visualize, you are photographing without a plan for the end result. Authors have a story board or an outline of the book they wish to write, architects create blueprints before buildings are constructed, fashion designers sketch their designs before cloth is cut, so should you pre-visualize before you shoot. I do also believe this does not apply to all types of photography, in particular, sports, certain events, photojournalism and street photography to mention a few.Many photographers have challenged themselves to do 365 or 52 projects where they capture one image a day for a year or one image a week for 52 weeks. So here is a twist based on two of my mantras “pre-visualization” and “deliberate photography™”.The project is based on your pre-visualizing 12 images and then striving to capture them as you pre-visualized them.The way you go about doing this is through a process of journalling before the fact.  It is more like creating a story board sketch.  Each sketch is created to record your pre-visualized image and may also contain lens perspective and focal lengths, mood, lighting and some post processing notes.The 12 pre-visualized sketches can be individual images that have no connection to each other, they could be a part of a story or they could be based on a theme you choose.Keep these twelve sketches with you in your camera bag. More importantly flip through these pages every once in a while.  When you come across a scene that is representative of what you have pre-visualized, be deliberate, take your time, wait for the moment and capture the image.Once you have post processed the image, compare it to your sketch - see how well you achieved what you had set out to capture.This is something different but a project that will teach you to be on the look out for the images you desire, think and plan your photographs and help you create photographic art.Leave me a comment if you would like me to set up a page to display your project.

Firmware Updates

What is "firmware"?  Firmware is the program code that resides in an electronic or computer device's read-only memory (ROM). ROM can be written into using special software.  Firmware is also referred to as "microcode". Typically, firmware is written into ROM when products are assembled in the production facility and is used to facilitate the running of the product defined by user programs.In most cases, when a product is first introduced the firmware is given a numeric designation, typically 1.0.  As features are added and bugs or problems are resolved, new firmware is developed and the numeric designation is updated.  This could be 1.1 or 1.01, etc.  These are minor revisions or updates.  A significant enhancement or update is usually designated with a whole number increment, 2.0, 3.0, etc.  All firmware updates are designed to be incorporated into existing products via an update.  Such updates can be downloaded from the manufacturer to your computer and subsequently into the ROM of your product.With many manufacturers, you will get an email notification when a new firmware update is released.  However, this notice will only come if you have registered your product. You need to periodically check for these updates on the manufacturer's website (usually in the support section).It is unfortunate that many DSLR's and Mirrorless camera owners rarely update the firmware.  Only when they encounter issues and ask for support they will be requested to do an update. The update will in most cases resolve the issue.It is good to periodically check the firmware version of your camera and verify that you have the latest.  If you are not up-to-date, then download and install the latest version.  Be very careful and follow installation instructions explicitly.  There are no shortcuts and a mistake during a firmware update can render your camera useless.  You will have to send the camera to the manufacturer for a complete reset and update.DSLR and Mirrorless cameras are not the only products that require firmware updates. Newer lenses, flashes, lens adaptors, hand held light meters, studio strobes, etc. contain ROM and firmware.  If your photography product has a USB port (connection) then it probably has ROM and firmware so it is worth checking for updates.Why not start the new year ensuring all your gear is up-to-date.  It is also good to check for updates once every three months.  Why miss out on a new feature or bug fix.

Thank You and Happy Holidays

Thank you for an incredible 2014! You have been an integral to the success of our photography workshops, educational programs, photo tours and publications.  We are ever so grateful and proud to have you as part of our community.  We look forward to your continued support in 2015 and beyond.This was photographed at the Black Sand Beach of Jökulsárlón in South Iceland 

Nissin i40 - an exceptional pocketable flash

I had been anxiously waiting for the two evaluation units to arrive and finally they arrived two days ago, December 15, 2014. The small Nissin i40 is made for Canon, Nikon, Micro Four Thirds, Sony and Fuji cameras. With a current street price of $269 this is a very affordable unit.In the box is the flash head, a stand with a metal 1/4 20 thread for mounting on a light stand or other device, a diffuser, and a quick start instruction manual.  A nice belt mountable pouch for carrying the unit is provided and they include a carabiner so you can attach the pouch to any belt, strap or camera bag loops and rings. A spare set of AA batteries fits nicely in the diffuser so you can carry enough reserve power in one convenient pouch.The i40 weighs 7 oz and fully extended is under 3 1/2 inches. The unit is powered by 4 AA batteries and unlike the larger Nissin flashes this does not have a cartridge system for the batteries. With a guide number of 40 or at ISO 100 of 131' at 105 mm and 89' at 35 mm position, the unit is suitable for most photographers who like to carry a handy flash for fill as well as indoor photography needs.The power zoom range is from 24 mm to 105 mm without the diffuser and 16 mm with the built-in diffuser in position. The flash is mounted on the camera hot shoe using a spring-loaded locking mechanism that is very convenient. The flash-head tilts up 90˚ in four stepped positions and rotates 360˚ in 30˚ steps.In addition to the flash light source, the i40 includes an LED based video light with variable power output.Triggering the i40 requires you to either mount it to a hot shoe or remotely trigger it wirelessly using the cameras built-in trigger.There is no LCD panel and all controls are via dials on the back panel. Unfortunately these are not illuminated and pose a slight problem in a dark environment. Clearly the dials are designed for ease of use and they do just that.For purposes of this review I am using the i40 designed for Micro Four Thirds cameras and all my testing was done with the Panasonic GH4 and some additional testing with the Olympus OM-D E-M1.Size and Weight: This is a very small unit comparing it to a Nissin 8000, and the Nissin 466 (also designed for MFT cameras), the i40 is totally dwarfed. Without batteries the unit weighs 7.17 oz and with four AA batteries the unit weighs 11.0 oz.  The pouch, diffuser and stand add another 3 oz.Battery Compartment: Unlike its larger brothers the i40 does not have a removable battery cartridge. You slide open the door and insert the batteries as marked. The makings are well identified and you are not likely to insert the batteries wrong. To close the battery door you need to push the door down over the batteries and simultaneously slide it into the locked position.Mounting to a hot-shoe or stand: All you need to do is to slide the Nissin i40 into the hot-shoe slot. A spring-loaded mechanism secures the unit in place. To remove the flash head, you need to push a small unlock button and then slide the unit off the hot-shoe.

Operation:

To turn on the i40, lightly depress the power button. The power indicator light will turn red and once the unit is charged the light will turn green. Concurrently the zoom feature will initialize.

Controls & Modes

As mentioned earlier, the i40 controls are two dials and indicator LEDs. The dial on the left side of the back panel is used to select operating modes while the one on the right is used to adjust power or exposure compensation (depending on what mode you use).

Modes:

I will address each mode as the mode dial is rotated clockwise.Video (Indicated with a video camera image) — in this position the Video LED is powered on. The LED intensity can be adjusted in 9 steps using the TTL exposure compensation dial on the right.SF - the i40 will trigger on the first flash it sees — this is ideal for use with other flash units set in manual mode or for use with studio strobes.SD - the i40 will ignore any pre-flash from a master unit and trigger on the main flashTTL - TTL is supported and indicated by the two LEDs, the Mode LED and the TTL exposure compensation LED. In TTL you can adjust the flash exposure compensation from + 2.0 to - 2.0 in 0.5 step increments. I found this to be a very easy to use and convenient feature. It is so much easier than having to push +/- buttons and review readings on an LCD window. The performance of the exposure compensation dial and flash out was very accurate as measured with a Sekonic L-758DR Digital Master Light Meter. Tests were done using both a Panasonic Lumix GH4 and an Olympus OM-D E-M1.  A (The green A) - This is the Automatic Mode and is identical to the TTL mode without any exposure compensation. In this setting only the mode dial LED is illuminated.M - Manual Mode - here the mode dial indicator LED and the middle LED are illuminated. The power output dial shows the output in 1 stop increments from 1/1 to 1/256.A, B, C (white lettering) — this is the slave TTL / Manual mode and the unit can be set to any one of three slave groups A, B or C. Testing this feature with the Panasonic GH4 and Olympus E-M1 allows the camera to control the flash from 1/1 to 1/128 power.  This feature is not available on the Fuji version.High Speed Sync (HSS) - This is not an intuitive or marked setting. To set HSS you need to hold the pilot lamp button for 3 seconds till the LED starts blinking. Similarly, to turn it off hold the button down for anther 3 seconds till the lamp stops blinking. Powering the unit on and off does not reset HSS it will say engaged till you turn it off. The i40 will let you use shutter speeds of up to 1/8000 Using this mode I was able to shoot up to 1/8000 shutter speed with no problems. High Speed Sync is only supported in A, M, TTL or wireless mode. To enter HSS mode hold the pilot button (the LED next to the power button) for 3 seconds, or until the left LED starts blinking.  To exit HSS mode hold the pilot button for 3 seconds or until the left LED stops blinking.  This is true only for the MFT and Sony versions.  For canon and Nikon, you activate this function in the menu of the camera and it will pass through to the flash.  Fuji does not currently support HSS so it is not a feature on that version of the i40 flash.Zooming - the i40 will automatically zoom to the closest focal length of the lens mounted on the camera as long as the lens has electronic communication with the camera body. As many mirror-less camera users are using adaptors with non OEM lenses, there may be no electronic communication with the body and hence the flash will not zoom even when mounted on the camera. To set the zoom manually in such situations or when using it remotely you will need to hold the power button down for three seconds and wait for the pilot lamp to change color. Colors will cycle a deep blue(24mm) to pink(50mm) to blue(80mm) to orange (105 mm). These zoom ranges and colors are conveniently printed on the body of the flash head and exposed by sliding the bounce flap upwards. 

Other features:

• Flash Color temperature 5600 K
• Flash duration 1/800 sec full power to 1/20,000 sec on the lowest power
• Focus Assist lamp is positioned immediately above the hot-shoe mount and assists during low light focusing.
• White Bounce Flap is built into the unit and enabled by sliding it upward from the rear of the flash head. Of significance is that the bounce can be used in conjunction with the diffuser in place. This provides for some really nice lighting.
• Wide Angle Diffuser is also built-in and you need to pull it out using a small notch from the front of the flash head. It is spring-loaded and flips flat to the flash head’s lens.
• An optional diffuser is include with the i40 and is easily mounted on the head when needed. It is conveniently stowed in the provided pouch.
• As with most speed-lights excessive firing of the flash at high-powered can result in overheating. The i40 has a built-in thermal protection system. When the thermal protection is triggered, the pilot lamp will blink red.
• Auto focus assist beam with a range of 2.3 to 16.4 feet.  Please note that this feature is not available on most Micro Four Third Cameras - Panasonic and Olympus cameras tested do support this feature.
• Good battery life — approximately 220 (full power) to 1,700 (minimum power) flashes on a single set of fully charged batteries
• Video light run time is approximately 3.5 hours
• A well designed stand with metallic 1/4 20 mounting threads.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Very light and easy to carry
• Good mechanical mating with the hot shoe
• Easy to use control dials
• Appropriate power for its size
• Good wireless capability
• HSS is a great feature for a flash this size

Cons:

• No audible beeps for flash ready after recycle indication
• Dials can be inadvertently rotated. A push down to adjust feature would be better
• Hard to see dial settings in the dark. Backlit dials would be preferable

Conclusions

Given the Nissin i40’s size and weight it will find a permanent place in my camera bags, particularly for the Panasonic GH4 and Olympus OM-D E-M1 configurations. It has enough power for most indoor situations and is ideal for fill light outdoors. The few points mentioned in the Cons section could be easily implemented in the next generation.  On a scale of 1 to 5, I give the i40 a rating of 4.5

Additional Images:

Flash Sync Speed Limitation - a question from a subscriber

Question: "One thing I am curious about is the shutter with regards to off camera flash. Is there still a physical shutter that limits me to a max synch speed of around 1/200 of a second? Or have they moved to an electronic shutter that would allow much faster synch times?"

In order to appropriately respond to the question lets first understand how mirrorless camera sensors operate. Most mirorless cameras use CMOS sensors that contain light sensitive pixels arranged in rows. These sensors are always live as long as the camera is powered on and booted up.In the mirrorless world, the sensor information is being constantly fed to the LCD and/or the electronic viewfinder. When you press the shutter the following sequence takes place: a) the sensor is wiped clean electronically; b) next the sensor is turned on and receives light while the pixels record the information; c) now the computer in the camera reads the data collected by the sensor pixels to generate the image. This data is finally recorded to the memory card.We know that the sensor is sensitive to light and always receiving information. In order to capture a good image, the sensor should be restricted from receiving light while it is being wiped clean and then again when it is reading the data captured during exposure. As the sensor data is being read you do not want the pixel information changing with any new light that may fall on the pixels. So, for both these events, mirrorless cameras use electronic or mechanical shutters or a combination of the two.The electronic shutter works by first erasing all the pixel data on a row-by-row basis. Then new image information is gathered and the data is read by the computer on a row-by-row basis very similar to how a television picture is generated. All of this takes time, albeit just a fraction. The greater the number of pixels the more the rows of information and the slower the process. This limits the cameras from achieving high shutter speeds. For proper exposure these rows of pixels gather the same amount of light but do so a row at a time. The data is read at the same rate. The collective time determines the fastest achievable electronic shutter speed.We are aware that to expose properly for flash photography all the pixels must be “alive” and ready to receive data while the flash is on. If the row by row read process starts too early then you will get areas of dark under exposure. In order to properly expose for flash, the computer in the camera has to wait before it can start reading the data collected by the sensor. This wait time determines the highest sync speed for flash photography.As an adjunct to this, in order to achieve higher shutter speeds mirrorless cameras use mechanical second curtains. The curtain can rapidly close all light from entering the sensor while the computer reads the information. On the Sony A7 that has a 24 MP sensor, there are 4000 rows of pixels. The only way to attain shutter speeds of 1/8000 sec. is possible using a mechanical rear-curtain. On the 36 MP A7r however, there are 4912 rows of pixels. To attain speeds of 1/8000 sec. this camera needs both a front-curtain and a rear-curtain shutter. The MFT cameras like the Panasonic GH4 and the Olympus OM-D series have 16 MP sensors that have only 3456 rows and can achieve 1/8000 sec. electronic shutter speeds without the need for mechanical shutters..The Sony A7 has an optional mechanical front-curtain that must be deployed when using lenses of longer focal lengths at high shutter speeds.Unlike DSLR’s, the mechanical shutter on mirrorless cameras remains in an open state in both the powered off and powered on modes, allowing for live view data to be collected and displayed continuously.The highest flash sync speed is currently 1/320 sec on the Olympus OM-D E-M1 , 1/250 sec on the Panasonic GH4 and under 1/200 sec for most of the Sony cameras.Hope this explains why the current mirrorless technology is limited and high flash sync speeds are not feasible.  If you have other photography related questions, please do not hesitate to ask and I will do my best to get you answers.